A sustainable agriculture RPCV brings those basic practices home to Montana to upend Big Ag, sequester carbon, and improve health. Started as my life as a Sustainable Agriculture Extension Agent in the Peace Corps (8/13/09-10/03/2011) in Senegal, West Africa.
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Long Overdue
After some massive shopping in the market of Kaolack, I moved to Dioly on October 21st.
Dioly is a small village of about 250 people. There is no running water. There is no electricity. But there is a robine (communal faucet) on the way!
I called my niece to wish her a happy birthday. And she asked me some questions which made me realize that my emails haven't necessarily been thorough (oh, and I haven't been updating my blog? surely you jest!).
What are the people like?
This is a hard question. Just try to generalize all Americans. Oh. Really? You can stereotype Americans that easy? Okay. I guess I can try, then.
Senegalese are a very friendly, welcoming people. They boast about their "teranga" or hospitality. And it is true. When you meet someone new (Which you do about 20 times a day--because you say hello to EVERYONE), they ask you how you are, how your family is, how the heat is treating you, how your work is going...and follow every one of your responses with "alhamduliliah....tabarika la...jamm rekk..." (Thanks be to God, Peace Only). Then, they'll ask your last name and start their unique cultural joking... "Cisse! Your last name is Cisse! Oh, you like to eat rice! You eat so much! Ndiao is a much better last name. You should be a Ndaio." To which I refute everything (No! It is Ndiao that like to eat rice! Cisse is better!---Oh, okay, for you, I'll be a Ndiao.) Or, even better... ,"Cisse! Oh, I am a Cisse too! You are my family! What is your first name? Ouly! Ouly is my mother! Oh, my mother! It has been so long since I've seen you, I have missed you so much!" It takes some getting used to. But Senegalese, be they Wolof, Pulaar, Sereer, etc all love to joke and laugh. It is good that I, too, like to laugh. Alot. :)
When I walk past at breakfast, lunch, or dinner times, I get bombarded with "Kii, Lekk; Newal an; Doo ndekke?" (Here, eat; Come, have lunch; You aren't eating breakfast?) No matter how much one has eaten, it is really expected that one should stuff their face as much as possible. Repetitively. They cajole you into eating. Just to find out that lunch today is rice with slimy okra covered with a thick layer of red palm oil. But. It is a risk worth taking. Because lunch could be yassa (spicy onion sauce over rice) or maybe there are tasty vegetables in their rice and fish or maybe they are eating maafe (peanut sauce over rice). However, it seems to be Murphy's Law that if you cave and sit down to the bowl...you're eating okra.
I travel the 6 k to my nearest neighbor's village fairly frequently. The road takes me through 2 other small villages (Chicken and Rohan...I'm sure that is NOT how they are spelled, but it is how they sound). Everytime I go, I turn down numerous offers to eat or just to sit and talk... "Yes, I know it is hot out, the sun is very hot. You say the shade is cooler. I know. I know. But I must go home. Oh. You're building me a hut? Where I can stay and talk with you forever? Oh....with running water and electricity? Oh, I'll be right back!"
No, really, in 4 miles of mostly deserted sand path I will tell 20+ people where I am going, where I came from, acknowledge the heat, graciously tell them I'm full, acknowledge how pretty my bike is, apologize for the fact that I cannot give my bike away.
What time is it there? Is it hot?
I am 7 hours ahead of Mountain Time. So, as I write this, it is 11 a.m. here, and 4 a.m. at home.
It is still hot here. Though it has cooled down to 65 at night recently. Which results in my wearing socks and drinking Nescafe in the mornings. But it still gets up near 100 quite often.
What am I doing?
Learning. A different language and a different culture is hard. Especially when it is so far remove from your own. I sit in my hut and study or read. I hem up my skirts or mend things (and, a woman in my compound brought me a scrap of frabric the other day and asked me to sew her month old daughter an outfit...I did it. No machine. No iron. No pattern. It took me a day and a half. Pictures on facebook.) I go sit in the shade and get bombarded by small children. I tend my garden. Doing laundry takes all day. I eat my meals (except for breakfast) with everyone else. 5-15 people around a huge metal bowl of rice or millet topped with a variety of different sauces. My favorite is rice with yassa. Or millet with nebbe baasi (a brown bean sauce). There is usually fish--to some degree--in all meals. Even if I don't taste fish, I tend to find a fish bone...interesting...
But. They give me a spoon. And usuallly one or two of the men eat with a spoon, too. Everyone else uses their hand.
I was thinking the other night: What woman in her right mind would want to use plates and silverware? Eating Senegalese style is like having pizza night at home. No dishes! Especially since they use only one or two pots to cook in, one knife to cut everything, and they cut things while holding them--thus, no cutting board either! Cleanup in Senegal is pretty sweet!
I shell peanuts until I feel a blister starting. I help pull the leaves of moringa off the branch (for use in cooking). I silently cheer inside when I can understand things in casual conversation. I don't know how anyone can ever hear in a foreign language without actively listening.
Kids here are just like kids everywhere else. They are dirty. Covered in dirt. But they are bathed EVERY day. Not like dirty American kids who bathe every other day or every third day. But imagine if your livingroom floor were a sand box. Dirt happens. Kids here hate baths and washing, too. It is universal.
And kids here play the same games. Gemma and Mariama were tying a flashlight to their backs the other day, pretending it was a baby. Samba (yes, a boy) then took the flashlight, pulled up his shirt, and breast fed it. :) Samba and Omar-Fanne were playing around on the horse cart the other day and Fanne (Omar's mom. since there are multiple Omar's, her son is referred to as Omar-Fanne) asked him what he was doing. "Going to Nganda" (nearby town)
"Oh, what are you going to buy there?"
"Beignets!" (yes, doughnuts)
"Only beignets? That's a long way to go for otnly beignets. What else are you going to buy?"
"Bread...and bananas!"At which point, the boys started yelling "bananas" and runnning around like, well, they'd gone bananas.
I guess for all the difficult parts of language and culture, some things are exactly the same.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Ndanke-ndanke
There is a saying in Senegal that (translated from Wolof) says "Slowly/Quietly is how to best trap a monkey in the bush". Which we manipulated to trap a lizard.... However, we did not see any lizards. We instead got our pants COVERED in stick-tights and burrs, felt like we were going to die of thirst, got nasty sunburns, and thanked the Lord that "stealing" is not a concept in Senegal when we picked a handful of peanut plants to eat fresh peanuts. :) Really, it was a matter of life and death. I promise.
However, the next day, a guy in the village did catch a lizard. I'm told they taste like chicken. I will never know. Because my host-grandmother was very vehement about the fact that I COULD NOT eat lizard. That lizard was BAD and would make my stomach HURT. And, since I was in a very small village and everyone knows everything, I couldn't sneak and eat lizard. Mam Ami Sow would have known. And I don't think I would like to disappoint her.
(and sorry, since I don't have my Wolof notebook with me, I do not have the full phrase...but it starts out 'Ndanke-ndanke')
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Things have been going great here. The end of training is in sight! We have two weeks until swear-in and 18 days until I am installed at my site. I am going to be in the Kaffrine region of Senegal. Basically, if you look at a map of Senegal and follow the line of The Gambia...when the line jogs north, continue North-Westish for about 15k. Kind of. It is in the heart of the Peanut Basin. However, my techincal trainer tells me that "There is no Peace in Peanuts, therefore, Peace Corps does not extend Peanuts". :) Which is pretty funny. So I will be focusing more on corn, millet, cowpeas, sorghum, and rice. But, since the soil is sandy and poor, I will be focusing on rice and cowpeas most. I suspect easy success with the cowpeas...not so with the rice. :( There is a little bit of sesame being grown in my area as well.
Right now, I'm just excited to get to my site soon. To be able to buy things for my hut. To be able to plant things in my backyard. To be able to do a little bit of cooking by myself. To be able to start integrating into the village that will be my home for two years. Mostly, I think I am excited to be in control of my own life again (well, as in control as one can be while in Senegal), I would like to make to-do lists and follow my own timetable instead of everyone else's.
Of course, nothing is concrete....and if I don't pass my language exam on the 14th, I'll be a little delayed getting to my village :S. So, I should really be studying Wolof right now, not posting on my blog.
I *might* be able to get a blog/pictures up between the 17th and the 21st. If I don't, however, I will likely not have another blog until after Thanksgiving. I apologize in advance.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
It's a Bird! It's a Plane!!

Monday, August 24, 2009
Finally!
It is just rather tough to borrow someone's computer and then feel ok for hijacking it for an hour or so...
So things are going well!
I am in a small community for training. There are maybe a dozen compounds in our village. I am living with a host family. My host family has two small children and the father speaks English and French. We have a solar panel. And luxuriously large "shower" and "toilet" facilities.
I am learning Wolof. Which is rather difficult. But I don't have to conjugate verbs. In Wolof, you "conjugate" the pronoun. So there are 8+ ways to say I, you, etc.
I eat "ceeb au jen" which is literally rice and fish. Sometimes, there is cabbage, eggplant, potato, or carrot cooked with the fish (or this crazy little green tomato like veggie called jaxatu). I eat ceeb au jen at least once a day if not twice. And I have 1/3 of a baguette for breakfast with a cup of creamer and sugar with 1/4 tsp of Nescafe in it. Which is just enough Nescafe to give it color. Obviously, I do not make my own "coffee". Maybe after I learn more Wolof I can make my own coffee.
If I'm productive enough, I'll get a few pictures uploaded tomorrow. If I can bum a computer. :)
Monday, June 29, 2009
New Placement!
- Senegal is just south of Mauritania.
- Senegal has lots of animals! Impalas, lions, cheetahs, monkeys, giraffes, oryx, warthogs, foxes, jackals, gazelles, rhinos, hippos, water buffalos, etc. Basically, the animals you would expect to see in Africa!
- It is approximately the size of South Dakota (~76,000 sq miles) with a population of ~13 million.
- While predominately Muslim (Sufism), 5% of the population is Catholic! Approximately 1% of the population practices tradition African animism. Senegal prides itself on religious tolerance.
- The city of Saint-Louis, Senegal is the African equivalent of New Orleans...a mecca for music (Jazz!) and the arts, it has also retained much of its French influence.
- Food will be similar to what I was expecting in Mauritania... though I haven't noticed any mention of the communal dish/eating by hand common to Mauritania... Maybe the food is the same, but the culture different in that aspect.
- Peace Corps will issue me a bike and helmet! For some reason, this is one of the more exciting things for me.
- Dress will be somewhat similar to what I'd already anticipated and packed for. However, it is much more progressive. Skirts only need to be below the knee, and it doesn't appear that I need to cover my shoulders. Loose fitting clothing is recommended. It will be socially acceptable for a Western woman to wear pants (though I probably don't want to make a habit of it).
- I will be living with a host family for the entire time I am there. I am guaranteed my own private room (including my own 'latrine'). Culturally, it is perceived as very odd if someone lives alone, therefore, PC places us with families... after all, being blonde-haired and blue-eyed is enough of an oddity!
- Best of all: "Senegal’s political stability has in many ways been a shining light in what has otherwise been a difficult post-independence struggle for most of sub-Saharan Africa." -PC Welcome Book, Senegal I have also read that Senegal is one of the few African nations that has never seen a coup d'etat. :) It is a socialist republic. (I can just imagine Mr. Hamilton's reaction...)
- I will be a "sustainable agriculture extension agent". The role is similar to my prior assignment, but is more focused on sustainability and community outreach/support/involvement.
- What it all boils down to is good things! Less sand, more fruits and vegetables, more animals, more tolerant and progressive culture, more water...
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Not going to Mauritania. period.
I just got a call from Peace Corps. They decided that, rather than string us along for a few months, they'd offer us new placements. They will construct a brand-new Mauritania class if/when Mauritania gets their act in gear. They are not, by any means, canceling Mauritania's program. They do not view yesterday's murder as anything anti-Peace Corps, they do not believe current volunteers are in any sort of danger. Mauritania and all of the presidential candidates have expressed their desire to keep Peace Corps.
Here is a small list of other countries I could possibly go to...and when. I might not be in an agricultural program anymore. I might not be going to Africa. I might not be in a francophone country.
August 2nd = Uganda
August 10th = Guatemala, Senegal
August 11th = Panama
August 17th = Namibia
August 18th = Dominican Republic
August 19th = Belize, Kazakhstan
August 20th = Philippines
August 24th = Eastern Caribbean
August 31st = Nicaragua
September 1st = Mexico
September 3rd = Micronesia and Palau
September 7th = Morocco
September 9th = Peru
September 12th = Vanuatu
September 14th = Macedonia
September 16th = Togo
September 17th = Cameroon
September 23rd = Malawi, Paraguay
September 27th = Ukraine
September 28th = Azerbaijan, Mozambique, Turkmenistan
October 2nd = Ethiopia
October 22nd = Jordan
November 11th = Lesotho
November 30th = Guinea
Some of these are highly unlikely. I.e.: Guatemala, I do not speak Spanish and my aunt owns a home there. Though, not all of these are likely possibilities, by any means. Some do not have programs that I am eligible for. Some speak languages I have no knowledge of.
Oh well. We'll see.
The Placement Office will have some possible placements for me, or some more definite timelines hopefully by next Tuesday. Which would be truly amazing! All of us Mauritania rejects will be given priority placement, etc, etc. And, like I just told my PO on the phone, (oh, and that's Placement Officer, not parole officer, smarty-pants!) I just can't imagine being on their end figuring out all of these logistics. Ugh! Just tell me where to go and when to be there and I'm okay!
I just hope that wherever I go, I can still use my new long dresses and long skirts! Though, I will not complain if I am going the South Pacific or the Caribbean. :) Really, I won't complain if I am going to Ukraine or Azerbaijan, either.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Uncertainties
Monday, June 15, 2009
Not en route to Africa
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
The rundown...for any who've missed it
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Less than 1 month
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Productivity!! Finally!!
Sunday, April 26, 2009
It is snowing again
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Lists, lists, lists
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Foretold in the stars!
Friday, April 10, 2009
so close!
Monday, April 6, 2009
Phew!
Saturday, April 4, 2009
ANOTHER interview!
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Last Step
